Proper and Regular maintenance
of your spa will help it retain its beauty and performance. Tsunami can supply you with all the information, supplies and accessory products you will need to accomplish this. One big tip is that no matter what watercare system you choose to be on, test often and make small changes.

Cleaning the Filter

Your Tsunami Spa is equipped with a single  cartridge filter located in the top-loading skimmer/filter well. Filtering is  accomplished when the 2-speed pump , on either high or low speed, (or single speed dedicated circ-pump) causes water to be drawn through the polyester mesh of the filter.
As this happens, suspended particles become trapped on the filter’s surface.

To ensure optimum performance, it is necessary to remove and clean the filter cartridge, usually once a week, depending on usage and water quality, and then a monthly cleaning with a liquid filter-cleaner. To accomplish this, follow these steps:

1. Turn off power to the spa at the home’s breaker panel.

2. Remove the filter lid.

3. Remove the filter cartridge by turning the skimmer weir/basket assembly approximately 1/4 turn counterclockwise and removing it from the filter pot.
Lift the filter out as you pull it away from the filter pipe.

4. Using a garden hose with a high-pressure nozzle, rinse debris from the filter pleats beginning at the top and working your way downward. Continue, one section at a time, until you have rinsed all of the filter’s pleats.

Every 6 weeks - 2 months, the filter cartridge will need a more thorough cleaning to remove imbedded oils and minerals. For this, we suggest using a liquid filter cleaner available here at Tsunami and just follow the directions on the bottle. The average life expectancy of a filter cartridge is about about 3 years with proper care and water quality maintenance. A replacement cartridge may be purchased from Tsunami.

Draining and Refilling

CAUTION: There are certain precautions to keep in mind when draining your spa. If it is extremely cold, and the spa is outdoors, freezing could occur in the lines or the equipment. On the other hand, if it is hot outdoors, do not leave the spas surface exposed to direct sunlight for long periods.

We offer drains- as an option on your spa. To drain your Tsunami Spa, it is recommended to use a siphon hose or purchase an inexpensive submersible sump pump. The design of a  modern spa makes it ineffective to simply supply the spa with a drain in the bottom and wish that all the water will come out. . .because it won't! The depth of the therapy seats and welled areas for jets and even the plumbing itself will trap 3-10 gallons of water. At that point you're either in there bailing with your least favorite article of Tupperware or do what I do. . .get out the wet/dry shop vac! 

Cleaning The Lines 

There are many plumbing lines in a spa. No matter how clean you keep the water, chemicals only clean the water, not the plumbing lines. Bacteria and mildew-attracting scum can accumulate in the vast number of spa plumbing lines and fittings. You need to flush and clean them in order to prolong the life of your spa and keep it running smoothly. We recommend chemically flushing and cleaning the lines every six months to one year, or whenever you notice a skim film developing around the spa fittings. You should do this procedure right before you drain your spa. Be sure to use a cleaning product that will dissolve body oils, dirt, hair, soap, scum, rust, and mineral deposits.

Cleaning the Spa Surface

 Regular cleaning of the shell surface is recommended to help prevent a scum line from forming above the water line.
In order to clean the shell surface above the water line (when the spa is filled), make sure to use a natural enzyme product. A natural enzyme product is important because it will not affect the water’s chemistry, is safe to use, will not scratch the shell surface, and helps to eliminate mold or mildew odors without bleaching the surface. Beware of using products that are not pH neutral as they will alter the water’s chemistry or using abrasive cleaners that can scratch the shell surface.

When the spa is drained and dry, we recommend cleaning the entire shell surface with a polishing product. This helps
to create a durable, protective coating on the shell that seals the surface and hides scratches. After using the polishing product, we recommend then cleaning the surface with the natural enzyme product described above in order to rid the shell surface of any dry residue. Regardless of the cleanser used, use care to assure that no soap residue is left on the surface. This could cause severe foaming when the spa is refilled. Tsunami offers a specially formulated surface cleaner and sealant which aids in cleaning the spa surface and adds a protective coating to enhance the luster of the surface.

Hardcover Maintenance

*Keep your hardcover on anytime the spa is not in use. This will significantly reduce your operating costs, heat time and maintenance requirements. To prolong the life of the cover, handle it with care and clean it regularly using mild soap and water. Periodic (monthly is fine) treatments with a quality vinyl conditioner will help protect against deterioration caused by UV rays from the sun. Conditioning products usually should only be used on the topside of the cover. In order to clean the underside, simply use a garden hose and allow to air dry.  Never allow anyone to stand or sit on the cover, and avoid dragging it across rough surfaces. Also, the main culprit in a spa cover taking on water and becoming heavy is the deterioration of the plastic cover surrounding the foam core. This happens when chemical gasses from chlorine, bromine, shock, ozone etc are allowed to accumulate under the closed cover. When adding a heavy dose of chemicals, always keep your cover open for a half hour to an hour and let the gasses escape.

IMPORTANT: Never use petroleum-based vinyl cleaning products because they may be harmful to the cover and may void your warranty.

* During very hot weather you may elect to open the hardcover partway in order to allow the spa to get rid of heat during the night if turning down the thermostat is insufficient to keep you spa at 104 degrees or less.

Maintaining the Cabinet

Western Red Cedar- Is grown in
hostile environments (i.e. colder climates, coastlines, etc.), where it fights to survive with other plant life and vegetation. This helps it to build tremendous strength, while also developing into a very durable and weather-resistant wood. 

Our custom-stained Cedar cabinets need regular care or they will dry out and deteriorate. Indoor spa cabinets should be stained once a year or as needed, while outdoor cabinets should be stained at least once and preferably twice a year. It is always best to re-stain cabinets using the same product originally applied at the factory.  

Always be sure to wash the spa cabinet thoroughly before
re-staining. Then allow it to dry thoroughly. It is also recommended to pre-sand the cabinet with a fine-grit sandpaper before staining in order to refresh your wood, as well as to rid the wood of mildew stains and ground-in dirt. Keep in mind that you should never stain your cabinet unless the temperature is at least 55º F.

Regular applications of a penetrating wood preservative will enhance and protect the richness of the wood. Check with us at Tsunami about which products you should use.

IMPORTANT: Wood in a water environment needs to breathe. Never  seal cedar or redwood with varnish, shellac, or polyurethane. Once sealed, you will not be able to apply wood stains or water repellent products.

Alternative Cabinetry- Commonly called "plastic siding" simply needs to kept clean to avoid growing moss and if possible, kept out of direct sunlight. The plastic products are getting sturdier and more fade resistant all the time! About 80% of spas are now produced with alternative cabinetry.

 

Water Quality

IMPORTANT: Never store spa chemicals inside the spa's equipment bay.

 Water balance- is comprised of two factors that work hand in hand, alkalinity and pH. Testing and maintenance is a fairly simple task, but it requires regular attention because the water chemistry involved is a balance of several factors.
A careless attitude in regard to water maintenance can cause skin and eye irritation, cloudy water and may damage the spa’s surface, equipment and plumbing. 

Alkalinity- Alkalinity measures the water’s ability to neutralize acid and keep the pH level within the proper range.
If the alkalinity is not within an acceptable range (between 80-120 parts per million), you will not be able to balance the pH. This is why you must test and adjust alkalinity before testing
or adjusting the water’s pH balance.

pH- pH is a measure of the relative acidity or alkalinity of water and is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. The midpoint of 7 is said to be neutral, above which is alkaline and below which is acidic. In spa water, it is very important to maintain a slightly alkaline condition of 7.2 to 7.6. Problems become proportionately more severe when this range is exceeded or diminished. In addition, never enter your spa if the pH level is out of range, or you risk the possibility of skin and eye irritation. 

IMPORTANT: A low pH will be corrosive to metals in the spa equipment. A high pH will cause minerals to deposit (scaling) on the interior surfaces of the spa and equipment. In addition, the ability of the sanitizing agents to keep the water clean is diminished as the pH moves further outside of the ideal range.

This pitiful object is what's left of a pool heater heat exchanger after being subjected to poor water quality, mostly low pH and low Calcium hardness. Reasonably new, this part is now probably an $800 fix.

Other Water Issues. . .

. . .are most commonly foaming and soft water.
The sections below explain each problem in detail:

Foam- There are three conditions that would cause foaming
in your spa water: soft water, a high count of TDS, and/or soap residue from bathing suits, shampoo, body oils, and cosmetic products. If your water is soft with low hardness levels, see the section below. If there is a high count of TDS, you need to drain and refill your spa. If the foaming occurred due to soap or other residues, it is recommended to use a product designed to rid your spa of the residue.

Soft Water- Many areas of the country, especially those that have a municipal water source, tend to have soft water. Soft water may cause instant foaming and staining. Staining occurs because water has a natural demand for minerals. It attempts to satisfy this demand by grabbing minerals from other available sources such as heating elements and tubes, ball bearings in jets, etc. This corrosion is not only damaging to your equipment, but it also can stain your water and shell surface. All soft water should be tested for hardness levels.
An ideal level is between 100 - 200 ppm. Water hardness describes, and is adjusted by, the total amount of calcium present in the water.